1 de noviembre de 2011

El país en el que las empanadas tumbaron a McDonald´s

Lorena Arroyo
BBC Mundo
Última actualización: Martes, 1 de noviembre de 2011

McDonald´s intentó adaptarse a los gustos locales pero no tuvo éxito.
Su gran "M" amarilla sobre fondo rojo es reconocible practicamente en cualquier parte del mundo y es uno de los símbolos de la globalización, pero hay un lugar de América Latina en el que la cadena de hamburguesas McDonald´s no tuvo el éxito esperado.
Fue en Bolivia donde, pese a que el restaurante intentó adaptarse a los gustos locales (incluyó la llajwa, la salsa con la que los bolivianos aliñan sus platos, y música folclórica), no logró triunfar.
Por eso, en 2002 y después de cinco años en el país, la cadena de hamburguesas decidió cerrar sus ocho sucursales en La Paz, Cochabamba y Santa Cruz.
Ahora el documental "¿Por qué quebró McDonald´s en Bolivia?" explora el motivo por el que los habitantes de esas ciudades le dieron la espalda a las hamburguesas más populares del mundo."La cultura le ganó a una transnacional, al mundo globalizado", afirma en conversación con BBC Mundo Fernando Martínez, director del documental.
Para Martínez, una de las claves de ese fracaso fue el precio, ya que, según explica, el menú más barato costaba entonces 25 pesos bolivianos (algo más de 3 dólares), mientras que, por ejemplo, en La Paz, en la actualidad se puede conseguir un almuerzo completo en un mercado popular por 7 bolivianos (menos de un dólar)."Es fácil atribuirlo a la economía, pero detrás de ella están las personas, la sociología y los aspectos culturales", matiza Martínez al explicar que esos precios tan asequibles se deben a la relación de los bolivianos "cercana a la tierra" que les lleva a comer platos con los productos tradicionales "de sabores intensos y fuertes y de muchas horas en la cocina".
Viaje a través de la comida boliviana
El documental muestra cómo se prepara la khala purka, una sopa que se calienta con piedra volcánica.
El documental, que se acaba de estrenar en Bolivia después de pasar por varios festivales internacionales, hace un recorrido por el país sudamericano a través de su comida.
El viaje cinematográfico comienza en Potosí, con la preparación de la khala purka (una sopa de maíz espeso con ají y charque que se calienta con una piedra volcánica) y también lleva a Cochabamba a conocer los famosos "trancapechos de doña Betty", un generoso sándwich cochabambino que lleva arroz, carne y huevo frito.
McDonald´s en Sudamérica
Argentina: 192, Brasil: 480, Chile: 55, Colombia: 97, Ecuador: 19, Paraguay: 7, Perú: 20, Uruguay: 19, Venezuela: 180
Datos del documental "¿Por qué quebró McDonald´s en Bolivia?
Además de visitar mercados tradicionales, en el documental también entrevistan a chefs de la comida nueva boliviana, a historiadores, nutricionistas, sociólogos y al que fue dueño de la franquicia de McDonald´s en Bolivia, Roberto Udler."Yo había crecido haciendo varios viajes al exterior y la verdad que miraba con envidia que otros países tenían Mc Donald´s y nosotros no", confiesa el empresario en el documental, donde explica que la multinacional decidió cerrar todas las franquicias que estaban en zonas conflictivas después de los atentados 11 de septiembre.
Sin embargo, los bolivianos en cuanto a gustos, lo tienen claro. Y, como dice la canción que pone la banda sonora al documental "a mi paladar no se le impone ni cómo ni cuándo".
Por eso, en Bolivia siguen triunfando los platos tradicionales como las empanadas salteñas, el pan con queso, el fricasé, el majadito o el silpancho.

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